Projekt 2.5-16v,

[JM Motorsport]

Picked this one up outside Paderborn one year ago.

Things to be done:
Replacing autobox with the Getrag
VEMS EFI installation
Engine rebuild, pistons, rods etc
Brakes,
Suspension.
Hopefully its all done for the next jahrestreffen!

This is a summary of my project thread on the mercedes190.co.uk forum, first pictures are from january 2007, and the last picture from saturday last week.
I will do updates on both forums in the future. (im not very goot at writing in german but i can understand it in writing)




First on the agenda was replacing the autobox with a schaltgetriebe:

Shifter bushings from Jesper









Evo 2 Brembo brakes:




New Clutch kit:




New parts for the schaltgetribe conversion:


Realese bearing from clutch kit installed


This is the writeup for replacing the autobox we did on the english forum

To be able to get the gearbox out from under the car, jack the car up at least 50 cm.




Disconnnect the two vacum pipes and then remove the magnetic valve that controls S/E


Plug black/white hose from magnetic valve to yellow thing.



Remove hose from gearbox to the 4th cylinder inlet pipe on manifold, plug this.



Magnetic valve removed, not to be used again.


Remove linkage between gearbox and throttle body


Get underneath the car and remove the drain plug from the gearbox,


Remove exhaust pipe


Remove pipes between gearbox and oilcooler (upper)


Lower


all the way back to gearbox


same pipes


Disconnect this connector from gearbox to i havent got a clue


Remove plastic cover on sump to get to the flywheels 6 bolts. Turn the crank to get to the next bolt. reapeat until all bolts have been removed.


Drain converter from oil,


Pipes and hoses removed and not longer needed


Remove heat shield to get to the propshaft


Remove propshaft


Remove gearbox bolts, beware its heavy use something to support it with (59 kg).


Gearbox removed


automatic (short) and manual (long) propshafts,


Remove the 8 bolts from flywheel


Flywheel and clutch


Flywheel stretch bolts


New grooved ball bearing
http://www.jm-motorsport.se/bilder/gearbox/DSC_3486.jpg

This is where you install it


New ball bearing installed, make sure its sits correctly in place, us a hammer and light force to tap it in.


Mount flywheel


30nm and then 90 degrees


Clutch alignment tool


Tighten pressure plate bolts and keep the alignment tool in while doing it


To install the hydralic pipe you will need one of these:


Install pipe






Fill up gearbox with a suitable oil, 1.6L


Mount


Old and new


Raise the gearbox,


DO keep a pair of gogels around, you will other wise have problems to see


Looong extensions are a must to reach all bolts


Open the contact for the lightswitch



Solder in a lead between these cables




Get the hose thru the rubber



Emty the canister whit breakfluid and cut of the side "valve"
and fit the clutch hose



Fit the the hose to the clutch and mount the pedal asembly.
Also fit the pressure line to slave cylinder on gearbox


Center the gearleaver with a 5,5mm drill


Plug this vaccum pipe


Reverse ligth switch










Its a litle hard to see the cut-out-line, but try,,,,other wise you cant fit it back.



And this is the result: GETRAG

[JM Motorsport]

Getrag box has been installed, now its time to move on:

Recieved my Evo 1 wheels:


Removed all plastic, sending it off the get it resprayed:


I finally tooke the time to take the engnie out today. Its being fully rebuilt with new parts, and a set of custom pistons from JE, and of course VEMS converted. More pics will follow:

Firewall insulation, need a new one














Didnt have much time today, so i only managed to remove the intake and all the KE-Jet stuff. Getting a new electronic injection system will not just improve the drivability but its also an huge visual improvement under the bonnet.









Took the head off today, and some other parts atteched to the bottom end. The head gasket was from brand called AJUSA, wich was probably the worst junk ever, fell apart and most of was still stuck to the bottom when i removed it.









Both tanks removed, gonna take a lot of effort to get this new and shiny again.


Old vs new expansion tank


Need to get a new washer tank too


This one was quite suprising, look closely and you can see the welds. Looks like the previous owner, or most likely their local garage, decided to use an angle grinder to cut it in two, why one would ask. Its impossible to remove this without removing the oil pickup pipe first, so instead of doing just that they cut it in two :blink:



Here are a few pictures of the motorlager:










Most of the parts for the EFI conversion has arrived:
Here are most of the parts for the EFI conversion. Not pictured are the bolts for the trigger, wires, and the mini-timer connectors for injectors. These i sourced from a BMW e34, they can be taken apart and cleaned, make sure you get the rubber coverings as these will prevent water getting in.

Everything except rail, injectors and pressure regulator is from the VEMS shop,

1. SAAB injector rail
2. Bosch injector 0280 156 023
3. VEMS ECU
4. Honeywell Trigger
5. Bosch Wideband sensor
6. Fuel pressure regulator
7. Waterproof connectors female 2/3-pin
8. Waterproof connectors male 2/pin
9. Wideband connector
10. ECU connectors


Washed a few parts in our new partswasher:

(phone cam pics, forgot to bring my digi with me, put some better pictures up next week)

Before:


After an bout an hour on auto wash, and and a few mintues brushing grease off.

[Henger]

Hallo Mikael,

vielen Dank für die umfangreiche und schön bebilderte Anleitung zum Wechsel von Automat auf Schalter
Ich bin sicher, die Anleitung wird für einige eine große Hilfe sein.

Freue mich auch auf deinen Umbau auf die Vems, mach bitte viele Bilder von allen Fortschritten
Bin schon sehr gespannt ob du mit den Ergebnissen der Motorrevision und dem Wechsel auf EFI zufrieden bist.

Dein Wagen sieht sehr schön mit den EvoI Felgen aus
Hoffe sehr, daß dein Wagen in Hockenheim 2008 mit dabei ist.

Gruß Fränk

[Nagilum]

Hey, nice tutorial with a lot of (useful) pictures!

I'm also intrested at the rest of the story and of course of the result and if you're happy (and got what you expect to get) or not.
Also, as Fränk, I'd like to see the result at Hockenheim 2008.

As always: I'd also like to change to EFI, but I have to wait until some of you have an EFI running and we/I know how and what to do because I don't have your possibilities.

So: Have fun and good luck!

Regards
- Nagi

[db16v]

Viele schöne Bilder.
Schönes Projekt.
Aber warum baut man erst das Getriebe um und dann den Motor aus??
Oder liegt der Getriebeumbau schon langer zurück?

Gruß

[JM Motorsport]

Viele schöne Bilder.
Schönes Projekt.
Aber warum baut man erst das Getriebe um und dann den Motor aus??
Oder liegt der Getriebeumbau schon langer zurück?

Gruß

Good question, i first replaaced the gearbox in april, goal was to have it ready for Hockenheim. But i had some problems with KE-Jet. Since i dont use my car in the winter, i thought it would be a good idea to take the engine out this winter, and have it all ready for next year.

[JM Motorsport]

Started to rip out the hydralic system yesterday, will not keep the ASD nor the hydralic suspension. Was suposed to have it all out today, but i had one to many last nite at the pub, basically havent left my bed today I did however manage to buy me a daily driver over the phone.

anyway here are some pics from yesterday:



hydralic pump and resorvoir, need to plug the outtake on the cylinder head.


New plug for the oval hole to the left, hydralic pipes ran through a grommet. But their might be rubber plugs available (see last pic from EPC)


New washer bottle, new jubilee clips (mercedes stamped), grille emblem


Rubber grommet for pipes, nr 56:
http://www.detali.ru/cat/oem_mb2.asp?TP ... 300&SGN=05

And maybe rubber plug nr 23 on this pic will fit, same description:
http://www.detali.ru/cat/oem_mb2.asp?TP ... 030&SGN=01

[Henger]

Started to rip out the hydralic system yesterday, will not keep the ASD nor the hydralic suspension. Was suposed to have it all out today, but i had one to many last nite at the pub, basically havent left my bed today I did however manage to buy me a daily driver over the phone.

anyway here are some pics from yesterday:

Gute Besserung wünscht der Fränk

[JM Motorsport]

For the first time in weeks i managed to actually do some work on the cossie. Been silent way to long now.

Im still waiting for my engine parts, so im just gonna put that a side and concentrate on something completly different, rear axle and suspension.

I have started to rip the SLS and ASD system out. Dampers will be replaced with something much more track day orientated, havent decided what to get though. ASD diff will be converted to a standard LSD, using springs instead of hyrdalic pressure. Hydralic pump and pipes from engine was taken out last month, so its the rear end parts thats up next.

Loosen the banjoo bolt on the LEFT side, and out comes some really nasty white oil. Remember even though the oil reservoir for the hydralic system has been drained, there still oil left in the system and under pressure. If the bolt is loosend to quickly you will get covered in hydralic fluid, not very nice. So just carefully loosen it and hold a piece of cloth over the bolt while turning it. Put a large bucket underneath and watch it pour out. Use a rather large bucket cause theres alot of fluid still left. After a few minutes you can loosen it up some more. Remember that there is still oil left in the dampers, and when these are compressed more oil will come out, and under heavy pressure. I managed to actually aim it right at johans face gross.gif.

When doing the right side, the system is by now pretty empty, so no need for the same precautions as the opposite side. However, right side damper is still full of oil.




Dampers and and spring load accumulators, in pretty good nick actually.


Its overall in good condition, but its all coming out for a complete restoration.


Well thats it for today. Im taking the complete subframe down tomorrow so i can being taking it apart, and decide which parts that need to be replaced to make it look as new again.

[JM Motorsport]

Was in the garage at 11 today, and just got home, so i manage to spend a few hours today.

Im really glad i manage to take out the complete hydralics system today, including all pipes. Im really sick of all this fluid, gonna need a long shower to get it all off.

I also took the complete subframe down, and have starte dismantling all the parts. So far diff, linkage on right side and A/R bar is out. Im gonna the subframe of to be sandblasted and then powdercoated.

Pipes for the hydralic pump disconnected, you need to remove the plastic fender trim to reach them. Also have a bucket ready for the fluid



Pump removed, next is to remove the pipes



You also need to unplug the connector for the ASD pump, cut som of the insulation away and push the grommet through floor.



Front caliper removed, replacing them with my EVO 2 brembo calipers:


Looked through Powerflex universal A/R bushes, to see if i could find anything suitable for the rear. There is one with the correct bore, but the rest of the measurements are wrong.


Subframe is down, and now its time to remove the last parts for the hydralic system. As you can see there is some rust around A/R mount, but it was just surface rust, and a wire brush removed it with ease.


Diff is out,


Taking the subframe apart

[Henger]

Hi Mikael,

vielen Dank für die vielen Bilder, sieht nach guter Arbeit aus die du da geleistet hast.
Auch gut, daß du den Rost endeckt hast, sonst hätte man an dieser Stelle bald durchschauen können
Ich bin schon mal auf das Endprodukt gespannt...wird wohl sehr sportlich werden

Gruß Fränk

[JM Motorsport]

Last update for this week. Manage to take the complete subfram apart, so now its time to send it way for sandblasting and powdercoating. The scale i used was perhaps not the best, but it 13 kg for the subframe i pretty decent.



Found a rubber plug from a Volvo, not sure wich model, but it fitted nicely into the hole where the wires from the ASD relay to the pump used to run, through the floor on the passenger side:



Here it is fitted:


Tried my Evo 2 Brembo calipers on, discs are standard 16v though.


Weight differnence between Evo2 and standard 16v calipers.
4 Kg for Evo2 and


6 kg for 16vs, 2 kg is pretty much


As requested, i weighed the complete ASD system today, 14 kg for full system with dampers and 10 kg without the dampers, and add 3 litres of hydralic fluid to that and you saved a few kg. Im not sure how much a set of standard dampers weigh?

Dampers

[Henger]

Hi Mikael,

sieht nach viel Arbeit aus.
Schön daß du die ausgebauten Teile abgewogen hast, so kann man sich ein gutes Bild zum Thema Gewichteinsparung machen
Weiter so, freue mich auf das Ergebnis.

Gruß Fränk

[fisch007]

Bin auch mal gespannt wie die EFI läuft, bitte mehr Infos

[JM Motorsport]

I will try to begin the EFI installation as soon as possible but im still wating for my engine parts

[JM Motorsport]

Modified SAAB fuel rail:





A few picture from last year, just before we took the engine out.

[Nagilum]

It looks interesting, could you explain it a bit?

Regards
- Nagilum

[JM Motorsport]

As you can see on this pictures, the brackets has been removed, and we have also welded on a bung, so we can use the original mercedes fuel line connector.

Next thing is to fabricate new brackets so we can put back on the manifold. These are the only modifications needed to fit the saab rail to the 16v engine.



Got these from Atec, to cover the hole from the hydralic pump




And also recieved my new con rods. These are actually for a Volvo B230 Turbo engine, but they are the same length as the 2.5 rods. We use BMW bearings (lager). Some minor modifications are needed to make it fit.

[Nagilum]

How does your fuelrail exactly work?
there are too much "openings"/connections for me.

Regards
- Nagi

[JM Motorsport]

Its basically a standard fuelrail.

4 small cups are for the injectors, Bosch type.
the large cup is for the fuel pressure regulator
the 2 pipes are for the fuel inlet and fuel return.
The black plastic knob is get the pressure out before taking off the rail from the manifold